Dries Van Noten: Francis Bacon On a Baltic Cruise


Paris – Painter Francis Bacon sounds a tiny bit unlikely as a source of inspiration for a fashion collection, but filtered through the canny brain of Dries Van Noten, and staged Sunday, March 8, in Paris, the result was a chic and sophisticated fall 2009 collection, albeit one more suited for a Baltic cruise than a backstreet art gallery opening.

Bacon got ideas from the magazines, images, art books and postcards that littered his legendarily messy studio, flowing them into his disturbing figurative artwork.

In preparing this fall 2009 collection, Van Noten's staff crumpled, bent and twisted images and materials, then mixed the resulting fabrics through this show.

"Francis Bacon and the way he destroyed and connected things, creating something new and stronger," was Van Noten's explanation of his starting point for this collection.

But where Bacon's figures were generally grotesque, Van Noten's were generally beautiful. Van Noten established his reputation with a masterly use of prints and a sense of bohemian exoticness. But his last few shows have shown a designer maturing into a more sophisticated soul and one who keeps the prints in check.

Frequently the only florals in a look for fall were the Baconized trompe l'oeil flowers on cloth covered high heels. Yet his double-breasted pink mannish jackets, the pinched-at-the waist cardigan jackets and his mid-length "mixed-media" skirts had plenty of excitement in their very understated purity.

Bacon used materials such as gouache, pastel, oils and pen and ink on paper, board and canvas in his art. Van Noten played with satin crepes, silk velvet, alpaca and, according to his program notes, fake plasticized snake print, woven ‘Couture' croc and silk ruffles as fur.

Source: http://news.yahoo.com

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